Review: Weisses Rössl, Innsbruck, Tyrol, Austria

A few streets back from the glacial shimmer of the River Inn and tucked beneath the watchful peaks of the Nordkette mountains lies the Weisses Rössl restaurant, Innsbruck’s unapologetic ode to Tyrolean gastronomy.

This culinary nook – not to be confused with the hotel of the same name at the same location – offers an unpretentious kind of charm that’s warm, welcoming and refreshingly unassuming, and has belonged to the same family for four generations.

The food

The restaurant offers traditional Tyrolean dishes, honouring recipes that have been passed down through the generations.

Adventurous diners will enjoy trying the escargots from Gugumuck – a Viennese snail farm – served with a garlic herb butter and toast. Andreas Gugumuck, a former employee of IBM, has been committed to reviving this once-popular Austrian delicacy for nearly two decades.

Alternatively, try the Beef Tartar, a classic Austrian appetiser here made from Tyrolean ox, and served with sliced red onion, butter and toast. It’s made with premium beef, such as local Alpine cattle breeds, prized for their tenderness and flavour.

Inspired by the traditional meat-based tartar, the vegetarian alternative – Gemüse-Tatar – is a vegetable tartar featuring finely chopped or diced vegetables combined with various seasonings.

There’s a selection of soups on the menu, too, including the celery cream soup served with truffle oil and a celery garnish.

If you’re feeling hungry, choose the Spinatknödel from the mains – spinach dumplings with Tyrolean mountain cheese and brown butter. It’s classic Alpine comfort food – hearty, flavourful, and perfect for a rustic meal – but exceptionally filling.

A less heavy but equally rustic dish to enjoy is the Tiroler Gröstl- roasted potatoes with beef, fried egg and bacon cabbage salad. It was originally created as a way to use up leftover ingredients and is typically cooked in a single pan, giving it a homely and comforting appeal.

Garnelen-Gröstl is a contemporary twist on the traditional Austrian Gröstl, substituting meat with garnelen (German for shrimps or prawns). This dish combines sautéed potatoes with shrimp and various seasonings, offering a lighter yet flavorful alternative to the classic version.

If you’re seeking a lighter, elegant dish that highlights the natural flavours of Austria’s lakes and rivers, choose the Saiblingsfilet, Alpine char that’s commonly found in Austria’s pristine mountain lakes and prized for its delicate flavour and tender flesh.

And for dessert? We passed, but there was the Austrian favourite Kaiserschmarrn served with stewed plums, as well as apple strudel, among the menu choices.

The chef

The soul behind the kitchen is Hans Ruetz, a local chef who started his culinary journey at Weisses Rössl. After some years as head chef, he decided to broaden his horizons with a culinary world tour, gaining experience in Hong Kong, Australia, New Zealand and Thailand. He returned in 2012, bringing international influences and years of expertise to every dish, with a focus on quality, craftsmanship and delivering great flavours. A visit to the restroom takes you past a window through which you can see the kitchen team at work.

The ambience

The dining room is typically Tyrolean with wooden panelling and sturdy furniture. It’s bustling when we arrive with what appears to be a good mix of local and international diners, yet all united by the enjoyment of good food.

The Alpine region’s religious and cultural heritage is depicted by a crucifix in the corner and angels hanging from the ceiling, the latter possibly just a seasonal decoration given that we were dining in January.

There’s also a terrace that can accommodate many more diners.

The cost

Starters range from €5 to €20 while mains typically hover at a very reasonable €15 to €25 (with the one outlier being the Tyrolean fillet steak at €42.50).

The final verdict

Weisses Rössl doesn’t pretend to be something it’s not. Instead, what it offers is an honest, skillful homage to the flavours of Tyrol – rich, robust and unapologetically Alpine. It was our first meal after landing in Innsbruck and delivered a hearty welcome to the region, setting a high bar for the rest of our trip.

Disclosure: Our trip was sponsored by Innsbruck Tourism.